Dog Training: How to use the high collar technique for dog management if your dog pulls on lead
Raise your hand if your dog pulls on the leash when you go out for a walk. You’re not alone – this is by far one of the most common complaints that dog owners have with their dogs. There’s no shortage of gadgets out there that claim to fix the problem: halters, harnesses, etc. While the ultimate cure for leash pulling is your training (since the more “moose-like” you become in your dog’s eyes the more they’ll be focusing on you during your jaunts about town, and the less they’ll need to look “out there” for prey objects), one of the least invasive management techniques that I’ve found uses a high training collar. You’ve seen Cesar Milan use it. You’ve seen the trainers at the Westminster Dog Show use it. Now I’m going to show you how to use a high training collar to have your dog walking calmly at your side, with little effort on your part, to keep you sane until the training starts to work its magic. Note: If you have a puppy, focus instead on using games like tug-of-war, hide-and-seek, and fetch-tug in conjunction with on-leash walking to get your pup used to being on leash – this article is NOT for you.
In order to use the high collar technique, you’re going to need:
- A properly sized training collar (alternately known as a “choke” collar, though we’re not going to be doing any choking with it). How do you know if the collar is sized properly? The collar should be about 2 to 3 inches longer than the circumference of your dog’s neck. This length allows you to slip the collar over your dog’s head relatively easily (if you have to force it the collar is too short, if it’s too easy then the collar is probably too long), while it’s still short enough to be easy to use and responsive. I like to use training collars made out of heavy metal chain, as they seem to slide through the ring the most effectively without getting caught in fur.
- Alternately, you can use a prong collar. These collars work similarly to the slip-type training collar, but without the risk of your dog experiencing anything close to a “choking” sensation.
- A short lead, 4-6 feet in length. I generally prefer leads that are 1″ in width (unless you’re dealing with a smaller dog, in which case thinner leads are fine). Do NOT try to use a retractable lead. You want something easy to hold and control. In fact, I steer my clients clear of retractable leads, using either these short walking leads or the ultra-long training leads.
That’s it. In case you’re not familiar with these collars, you want to pull the chain through one of the rings (the “slip” ring or the “dead” ring) to make a loop of chain – your dog’s head goes through the loop. This will leave one of the rings free at the end of the chain (the “live” ring) – and it is this ring to which you attach the leash. Also, it’s important to to put the collar on so that the “live” part of the chain goes OVER your dog’s neck. Otherwise the collar will not release effectively, which will cause problems for you and your dog. Here are some photos of the correct way to put the collar on your dog – notice that it changes based on whether the dog will be walking on your left (which is the standard for how dogs are trained) or on your right.
This photo is how the collar will look if the dog is on your left:
This is how the collar will look if the dog is on your RIGHT:
Once the collar is on your dog properly, it is equally as important that you position it correctly. The collar is going to be high up on your dog’s neck – it will essentially rest just behind the ears on top, and underneath your dog’s neck it will be just behind their jaw, more or less in the adam’s apple area.
IMPORTANT NOTE: You should not snap the collar while it is in this position on your dog’s neck. That could potentially cause great harm to your dog and is not the technique that we’re going to be using.
SECOND IMPORTANT NOTE: If you’ve used a training collar before as a tool for correction, your tendency is going to be to want to “correct” your dog. Don’t do it! In fact, the high collar technique requires almost NO action on your part, other than to just hold the leash so that the collar stays in position. No jerking! Please!
THIRD IMPORTANT NOTE: NEVER LEAVE A TRAINING COLLAR ON AN UNSUPERVISED DOG. Seriously. They could get injured or die. Only use a training collar when you’re right there to TRAIN your dog. Otherwise, just leave the regular ol’ flat collar on your dog.
This is the correct position of the collar on your dog’s neck:
If you’re using a prong collar, here is what the prong collar will look like when it is positioned correctly on your dog’s neck. Note that the collar is NOT meant to be slipped over the head – you squeeze the links to separate two of them (thereby opening the collar), and then reconnect the links once the collar is in the correct position. Adjustments to the collar are made by adding/removing links to make the collar longer/shorter – ultimately it should be in the same high collar position as the training collar.
In this photo I have the leash attached to the “live” D-ring – you can alternately attach the leash to both rings for a more subtle effect).
The correct place for your dog to be is to have your dog directly at your side. You will hold onto the leash just above where it is attached to the collar. Assuming the dog is on your left side, you will be holding the leash with your left hand (just reverse this if you have the dog on your right side), and your goal is for your hand to stay, more or less, in the same position the ENTIRE time. If the collar slips out of position, you’ll have to readjust it so that it’s back in the correct position. You will be keeping the leash just tight enough to keep the collar in its position high at the top of the neck (just behind the head).
Here is what it’ll look like with your hand in the correct position (notice that my left hand is pretty durn close to where the leash is attached to the collar) – also, the collar position could be even higher on your dog’s neck than in this photo – you wouldn’t want it to be any lower than I’m showing here:
Now start walking, though you’ll probably want to start slowly at first so your dog can get used to the new feeling of the high collar. All you have to do is walk – your dog will do the rest. If your dog moves out of position (either moving ahead or falling behind) then the collar will get snug around their neck (remember, your hand stays in a fixed position, so it is the dog’s own movement that causes the tightening of the collar). This sensation is different/uncomfortable for them, and your dog will move back into position in order to make the feeling go away. As your dog moves back into position, the collar should get slack, which will allow them to be comfortable again. Note: if the collar does not slacken, make sure that you have it on correctly!
Using the high collar technique allows your dog to make the CHOICE to be in the correct position. It may take them a few minutes to sort out exactly what’s happening and how to keep from experiencing the uncomfortable feeling of the tightening collar. If your dog gets confused, just stay calm and relaxed (keep breathing) and let your dog figure it out – they will! You can take a few steps toward your dog to release the tension on the collar, you can offer them praise to try and help them relax, and you can slowly take a few steps in your original direction to try and encourage them to keep moving.
Generally dogs figure out exactly what to do almost instantly. The beauty of the high collar technique is that you are never placed in an adversarial role with your dog – you are never “correcting” them – so they will not build resistance or resentment towards you. Additionally, you have created some structure for your dog, which will help them maintain their focus as you walk around the neighborhood. All you have to do is walk, and praise your dog for doing the right thing. Your dog will regulate their own position, and you can go back to enjoying your walks around the neighborhood.
One last important thing: pay attention to what’s going on with your dog. Every so often, let out the leash with your left hand so that your dog has the freedom to sniff the ground, find a spot to pee, etc. You don’t have to ALWAYS keep them right there at your side. Think of this more as a tool for you to use when you need to, and otherwise focus on keeping the walks FUN (for the both of you), something I’ll touch on with my next post.
Final note: In response to one of the comments below, I have written an update to this post and also included the use of the prong collar in our main discussion. Here is the link to an update of our discussion about the high collar technique. Additionally, we’ll be experimenting with the Sense-sation, I’ll let you know how it goes.
Thanks for stopping by, and let me know if you have any questions. Feel free to use the comments, or the usual e-mail: neil at naturaldogblog dot com.
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September 25th, 2007 at 5:22 pm
I think a safer alternative would be a Martingale collar. If properly fitted, it stays in place(requires no adjusting during the walk which can be cumbersome for both dog and owner), and is not nearly as dangerous as a choke collar can be. I trained my dog how to walk on lead with a slip collar(nylon, not metal), and while it “worked” great, there were times when he choked himself if he tripped, dashed out quickly, etc. There’s just too much room for mistakes using a choke collar, in my opinion. The martingale is great because it’s wider, more comfortable, and doesn’t “infinitely” tighten like a slip collar does.
With the technique you described above, many dogs will simply pull until they choke and keep on pulling. Especially with high drive dogs, this will not make much of a difference unless they are REALLY losing air. Again, not very safe(or effective). A dog will want to stick by you once you become more interesting than the surrounding environment– why not stick to a harness until they’re manageable? Not only that, but there are several other techniques that teach loose leash walking that don’t rely on a dog feeling uncomfortable because they’re beginning to lose their air supply(which is what happens with a slip collar). Just a thought.
September 26th, 2007 at 7:35 am
Hi Ben,
Thanks for your thoughtful comment.
As I’ll be addressing with an update above, it is very important to be in touch with what’s happening with your dog. In terms of “high collar” technique (which isn’t strictly “Natural Dog Training” per se, though we did use it extensively as a management technique during my apprenticeship with Kevin), if the dog ISN’T responding as I describe (i.e. is just pulling/choking or shutting down) then you’d want to stop using the technique. It is simply a management technique anyway, and doesn’t replace the training that you’d want to be doing. However, it does seem to teach the dog some important lessons, and my experience has been that it can help a very high drive dog slow down a little bit – with zero choking. Dogs are sensitive creatures, and all it takes is a little bit of sensation to effect a response. That’s why Cesar uses it on his show (I’d guess) – because it causes immediate change with little-to-no discomfort (good for TV). Many people are at a place with their dogs where they need more control to get to the next place, and high collar work gives them that control (as needed) so that they can just focus on the training aspects of their canine relationship(s). It’s a technique born out of necessity, really.
I haven’t found Martingale collars to be very useful in training except when used as originally intended – with a dog whose head is smaller than his neck. For most of what I’m doing, I’ll stick with a flat collar until I’m doing something more specialized which might require the training collar. My experience has been the opposite, actually, that Martingale collars encourage pulling in most dogs. But if your experience has been different, that’s fine. You just gotta do what works for you and for your style of training (and ultimately for the dog).
Probably the most important thing that I can emphasize is that you have to be sensitive to what’s going on with your dog. Using high collar one isn’t “impassive” and creating suffering for their dog – on the contrary, you’re engaged in a dance with your dog to help your dog learn how to be “sensation-free” while walking at your side where you want them to be.
September 26th, 2007 at 7:44 am
Sorry to say I’m with Ben on this one. I don’t like to use choke collars at all, ever. To me the best (least invasive) management tool is the prong collar (which should not be used for standard leash corrections). I’ve never seen a dog “flip out” with a prong collar on, but I have seen it happen plenty with the “high collar” technique. Of course you don’t want to be putting a prong collar on a puppy, so a second choice (which I don’t actually recommend unless people as me about it) is the Sense-sation Harness. It operates on a similar principle to the “Gentle Leader” but is far less evil–instead of constantly twisting the dog’s head to the side so he can’t see in front of him it twists his shoulders slightly. It causes discomfort, but to me the high collar technique is not just uncomfortable for the dog, it’s constricting in a way that can be very scary.
LCK
September 26th, 2007 at 9:44 am
Hi Lee,
Thanks for suggesting some other techniques to use, as I’m sure that the readers here will find those helpful as well. I haven’t tried the “Sense-sation” – so I’ll give it a whirl.
High training collar was something that I didn’t really understand until working with Kevin and learning how to use it. I’ve found it to be really helpful and generally un-scary – with most dogs adapting really quickly. And I often DO use a prong collar. Again, when I use a chain training collar there is no “constricting” – it’s important to not let it get to that point – which also can help teach an owner how to be more aware of their dog. One of my main reasons for writing about the high collar technique is that a lot of people are trying it (for having seen good ol’ Cesar Milan do it) without really understanding how the whole thing is supposed to work. I’m hoping that this discussion will be helpful for those people, who otherwise COULD be doing more harm than good through misuse of the technique.
I agree that a prong collar can be equally as effective – even potentially better. When fitted correctly it’s also a “high collar”, isn’t it? Maybe I’ll add the prong collar as a possibility to the article itself – but just you wait, I’ll get a whole host of comments from people who have their own problem with the prong collar!
September 26th, 2007 at 11:38 am
Yeah, a lot of people are under the impression that the prong collar is a torture device while the “gentle leader” is positive, when it’s just the opposite. You’ll get hate mail on that one!
And while I can understand your wanting to help people who are interested in using the “Illusion” collar (Millan’s patented device), I’m still not convinced that this technique is something I’d want to be handing out to anyone. Personally the only time I use it is very briefly, in a crunch situation. I’d focus on teaching the kissing sound technique instead.
LCK
September 26th, 2007 at 1:36 pm
I assume you mean the “hissing” sound technique?
September 26th, 2007 at 2:39 pm
No, I mean where as you’re walking, and the instant the dog loses focus on you, you make a kissing sound with your lips. When the dog looks up at you, you immediately give him a treat. It’s done to make the dog feel like good things happen when he’s in “the pocket” (next to you in the basic heel position).
I’ve been thinking of posting it on my blog…
LCK
September 26th, 2007 at 3:40 pm
Gotcha. I thought we were still in Cesar Milan world (not that I want to spend too much time there), and I wasn’t aware of his having a “kissing sound” technique.
Absolutely you should post it on your blog!
That sounds more like “training” than “management” to me – and this post was meant to be about management techniques.
I’ll keep an eye out for your post and find an appropriate place to trackback to it.
I’ll also be covering heeling in more detail in later articles.
July 3rd, 2008 at 11:23 am
I have been using a short lead for my rescue lurcher (had him three monts). We have progressed to where I am comfortable letting him loose completely on the beach and haven’t (yet) had a failed “come”. It may take a little while but he does it. My problem was loose leash walking but that too is coming and I can walk him for a long way beside me AS LONG AS THERE ARE NO OTHER DOGS. This is my problem. I think he has leash frustration and he lunges and barks so I tried a long line. Today was a disaster as a man with three large dogs suddenly appeared behind me. They were so quiet and he never said a word and Isaac was on the long lead and before I knew what was happening he raced over to sniff them. He is not aggressive but this did not stop the guy whacking him with a large stick. He wouldn’t obey my recall because it was far too late. However there was no barking and no lunging obviously. Should I continue with the long line?
July 24th, 2008 at 11:28 am
Hi Penelope,
Well, you can’t blame the guy for acting like he did (as unfortunate as that is) – but I wouldn’t give up on the long line. It can be difficult to remember (especially when you’re on a nice walk) that you still have to be vigilant about what’s going on around you – and, ultimately, having him on the long lead does save you from having no way to extricate him should he have an altercation (i.e. instead of “no lead”).
The long lead can be a great tool for you to continue working on the recall in progressively more distracting situations. Eventually you’ll get to the point where he’ll come even then – you’re just not there yet. Make sure you read the articles on pushing, and use that exercise to become more “mooselike” in your dog’s life. That’ll help make you more interesting than any other dog in his environment.
All the best, and thanks for coming by!
December 30th, 2008 at 12:23 pm
I am so glad to read such positive statements about the prong collar. I can’t get over how many people look at me as though I am torturing my dog when I walk her with this on. And yet in the next breath they can’t get over how calm and well behaved she is. Hmmmmmm, makes me wonder about the other “devices” that are out there.