Behaviour when out walking/hunting

[joframe]

I had an experience this morning walking my hamiltonstovare Jack which I was interested in getting feedback on.

I have been pushing with food for Jack very successfully and walks are done with his dinner so it can be used for recall/redirection very successfully. However I like to let him have his own time as well. This morning Jack got scenting, nose down, picking up a mouse nest or something similar and started digging. I stood there for a while thinking - no harm done, but then I realised he was totally tuned out of me and did I want that to continue...what would be the NDT approach be, should I let him continue - should I go up to him and haul him out...? but would that undermine the NDT work that we had been doing the last few weeks.

I went up to him and tried to entice him away from the sniffing by putting a piece of meat under his nose - no interest - i walked away determined to stay calm and observant. In the end what I did was a quick yank on the long line and a recall straight after as I ran away (akin to Kevins's heel work description only from a further distance). I got the most envigorated recall and push that I have had in the few weeks of working with him so I guess I had managed to divert his energy successfully.

My question is - is there a better way to handle this - should I be encouraging the dog to stay focussed on me all the time? I wouldn't have been able to do it without the longline and if my goal is to ultimately have him off lead I would need another approach - sorry for the length of post.

thanks

[Sang]

What you did was good since you gave him a channel to direct his energy, which was the push. The thing I would have added was to start getting excited with him about what he’s going after. “Wow, what did you find! Get it! Get it!” The behavior isn’t what’s important in these situations. What’s important is letting the dog know you’re on his side, so to speak. So by honoring his desire to go after this prey, you gain a little more trust.

So I think you handled it well. Often times we feel like there’s a lot we need to do. And often times the best thing to do is to do nothing. You just got credit for giving him resolution to his energy problem. The leash pop isn’t a bad thing as long as it’s done in a way that either adds energy, or ends with the dog getting a channel for his energy, either through pushing or tug/bitework. Which, in this instance, you provided. So I’d say it’s all good.

If you do find yourself in a situation where you need him to respond, you can also push him around and get physical with him. But do it in a playful way. If another dog wanted his attention and was trying to get him to play, what would that dog do? He would bump into him, jump him, nip at him, etc….he would be so annoying that the dog would have to respond. So you can also add that to your repertoire of things to do in those kinds of situations as well.

And yes, right now you need the long line and you wouldn’t have been able to get his attention without it, but the more you do this work, the less attracted he’ll be to things in the environment and the more attracted he’ll be to you. Eventually what will happen is that when he sees or smells something he’s attracted to, he’ll feel a pull to you, and connecting with you will be what connecting with that other thing feels like.

[schlupfi]

On reading your post, I have become very excited about my work with my dogs at the moment. Since I have a two fenced acres on my property, I have been doing pushing, tugging and box work with a lot of success but I have neglected the long lines until now. I have noticed that when I walk my 2 year old female, Heidi, on a long line, she will occasionally get snagged on a stump, or bush and when she does, she will immediately look to me and I will reward her with a treat as I loosen the line and call her to me. It seems that she has started heeling and walking naturally on a loose line, no more pulling. Have also noticed that when she is stopped short, it is not my fault but I start to be the problem solver instead of the problem maker. My 5 year old male is making strides also with the long line and of course I have control and can redirect easily if he is distracted by something in the distance. Since I do not want to use 2 long lines, I alternate one on and one off leash. I notice that the off leash dog is more responsive also because he doesn't want to get left out on the treats. Am I doing this right or can someone make a suggestion as to how I might handle this better. Thanks, much!!